What's new

Getting started

Signing in

The admin makes your account and gives you a temporary password. The first time you sign in you'll choose your own. To change it later, tap More at the bottom right, then Account (on a computer, Account is at the top right). Want a different name shown (on shared loads, box photos and the greeting on Home)? Ask the admin; they can change it with Edit name on the Admin page.

Colors

To use metric, go to More → Account → Units and tap Metric. Distances then show in metres, velocities in m/s, bullet drop, drift and group sizes in centimetres, cartridge sizes (COAL, case and bullet length, twist, barrel) in millimetres, energy in joules, temperatures in °C, wind in km/h, altitude in metres and bulk powder in kilograms. Bullet weights and powder charges stay in grains. Nothing you've saved changes, only how it's shown, so you can switch back and forth. The setting follows your account to your other devices, and the Excel and PDF exports and printed targets use it too. In metric, the range table and dope card step in whole metres, the wind brackets are 10, 20 and 30 km/h, and a zero typed in metres stays that many metres. A zero you set in yards shows its metric equivalent (100 yd shows as 91 m). The help on this page uses imperial units.

Pick a color theme under More → Account → Theme: Range (the original), Olive Drab, Flat Dark Earth, Blued Steel, Blaze Orange or Red Night. Each one can follow your phone's light/dark setting or stay light or dark. Red Night is always dark red-on-black, so it won't wreck your night vision. Your choice follows your account to your other devices.

Getting around

Range Book opens on Home: buttons to start a range day or a new load, anything that needs attention (components running low, a barrel near the end of its life, a gun due for cleaning), your rounds fired this month and year, your recent range trips, the reloading loads you've worked on lately, and your Most used guns (your favorites first, then the guns with the most rounds, with their photos; three rows on a computer and six guns on a phone, and All guns › for the rest). Tap Range Book at the top to get back to it. On a phone the sections are along the bottom: Home, Shooting, Reloading, Gear & Ranges and More (How to Use, Admin, Account and Sign out). On a computer they're across the top. At the top of Reloading, Loads | Components switches between your recipes and your components; at the top of Shooting, Profiles | Range log does the same, and Tools opens to a tile for each calculator. When you open a load, profile or gun, ‹ Loads, ‹ Profiles or ‹ Guns above its name takes you back to the list. On a phone or tablet you can also swipe in from the left edge of the screen to go back up a level (from a range trip to the profile's trips, from a load or profile to the list, from a gun to your guns), and the phone's own Back button does the same. Each tab (Home, Shooting, Reloading, Gear & Ranges and Tools) has a Tour button at the top right (▶ on a phone) that walks you through what that tab does, card by card; it may open the SAMPLE load to show you around, but it doesn't change anything. Next to it, Help (? on a phone) opens How to Use at the part about what you're looking at; tap ‹ Back to… at the bottom to go back where you were. On Shooting, Reloading, Gear & Ranges and Tools, the cards also have a small ⓘ next to their title: tap it for a quick how-to for that card, and More in How to Use › for the full story.

The Range log (the Range log button on Home, or Shooting → Range log) lists every day you've shot, newest first and grouped by month: your range trips, plus each day you shot groups for a Reloading load (one entry per load per day, with the number of groups, the charges, rounds and the best group). At the top are this year's days at the range, rounds, trips and load-development days, and your best group of the year. Tap Range trips or Load development to show just one kind, pick a gun to see only its days, or search by place, load or date. Tap an entry to open that trip, or that load's groups.

Start a range day on Home asks which gun you're shooting, then what you're shooting through it: one of your Shooting profiles, ammunition from your inventory, or factory ammo from the catalog that you don't have yet (it lists the catalog loads for the gun's cartridge, and the search box finds any other). Picking ammo makes the Shooting profile for that gun the first time, and a catalog pick is added to your Ammunition list with no rounds on hand, so you can count what you shoot from it. It opens a new range trip dated today and, if your phone shares its location, fills in the temperature and wind. You can also start one from a gun's page.

Tap a card's title (Point-blank range, Range table, Groups, Photos, the sections of this How to Use page and so on) to fold it out of the way; tap it again to open it. Range Book remembers which cards you closed on that phone or computer. Long lists (loads, profiles, guns, range trips, components) get a Search box at the top: type part of a name, cartridge, place or date. When you delete something (a load, profile, gun, trip, photo, group, component or ammunition), a note at the bottom says so with an Undo button for a few seconds. If you close Range Book and come back within 12 hours, it opens where you left off.

Add it to your iPhone home screen

Open this page in Safari, tap the Share button, then Add to Home Screen. It gets its own icon and opens full screen.

When the server has a new version, the app tells you with a banner that floats at the bottom of the screen (just above the tabs on a phone), so you see it wherever you are on the page: tap Reload now to switch to it (you land back where you were). It checks when the app opens, when you switch back to Range Book and every minute while it's open, so there's no need to close the app.

Changed something on another phone or computer? In the home-screen app, scroll to the very top of the page and pull down until it says Release to refresh, then let go. Anything you were still typing is saved first, then the app reloads with the newest data and puts you back where you were. (In a browser tab, use the browser's own refresh.)

Where your data lives

Everything saves to your account automatically, so it follows you to any phone or computer you sign in on.

No signal at the range

Open Range Book once on your phone through its https:// address while you have a signal. After that it opens even with no signal, showing your loads and photos as of the last time it synced. Anything you change or add (shots, groups, photos, measurements) is kept on the phone, and a yellow Offline tag at the top shows how many changes are waiting. They upload by themselves when you get a signal again. Don't sign out while changes are waiting, or they're lost.

Using more than one phone or computer

You can change things on your phone at the range (even with no signal) and on your computer at home, and nothing gets lost when the phone syncs. Range Book combines the two piece by piece: if the phone changed a load's velocity and the computer changed its name, you get both; a gun, ammo, trip or load added on either one is kept; something deleted on one stays deleted unless the other changed it later. Only when both changed the very same thing (the same box on the same load, say) does one win, and it's the newer edit, by the time you made it. A device that's been open a while shows the other's changes after you pull to refresh or reopen the app.

Guest mode

If the admin has turned it on, the sign-in page has a Try it as a guest button. Guests can use everything, but nothing is saved: it's all gone when the page is closed or reloaded.

Feedback and ideas: found something wrong, or have an idea? More → Account → Feedback and ideas opens your own email app (or GitHub) addressed to the person who makes Range Book, with the version filled in. Nothing is sent from this server.

Printing from the home-screen app on an iPhone or iPad: a PDF (a target, a trip report or an export) opens a small panel instead of a new page. Tap Print or save…, then Print (or Save to Files) in the share sheet. In a browser, PDFs open in a new tab as before.

Shooting

The Shooting tab is the trajectory calculator plus your range trips and printable targets.

Pick or make a profile

A profile is one gun and the ammo you shoot in it, with its zero, scope and conditions: everything the calculator needs. (On Reloading, a load is still a load.) The Shooting tab (the trajectory calculator and your range trips) opens to a list of your profiles, grouped by cartridge and sorted by name (long-range profiles are tagged, and so are profiles whose ammo is marked Subsonic). Set a profile's Cartridge at the top of its inputs to move it to that group. Tap one to open it, and tap ‹ Profiles to go back. Tap the star on a profile (or Add to favorites at the top of its inputs) to make it a favorite: favorites are listed first, under ★ Favorites, and come first when Start a range day asks what you're shooting. To add your own, tap + New profile. It starts blank: pick the gun and ammo (or type the numbers). Leave Profile name blank and it's named after the gun and ammo, like "Tikka T3x - Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor 143 gr ELD-X", and it follows if you change either; type a name to use your own. On the Bullet path card, Short charts to 200 yd, Medium to 400 yd and Long to 1,000 yd (and the range table to 2,000 yd). Your profiles are saved to your account. To remove a profile, open it and tap Delete profile at the very bottom (Undo brings it back). That works for the sample profile too, which also has Reset to defaults if you've changed it and want the original back.

A new account's Shooting list starts with a single SAMPLE · 6.5 Creedmoor profile, and on a new Range Book the first account also gets a matching worked-up ladder on Reloading. They're made up to show how things fit together, and they're marked with a warning: don't load or shoot anything from them without checking a current load manual. Delete them whenever you like.

Fill in the fields

• Gun: pick one from your Gear & Ranges tab and its sight height fills in. Edit beside it opens that gun on Gear & Ranges, with a ‹ Back to button to return to the profile. Profiles sent over from Reloading come with the gun already picked. If you change the gun's sight height on the Gear & Ranges tab, the calculator follows unless you've typed in your own.
• Ammunition: tap it to pick your own factory or reloaded ammo, or a load from the factory catalog. Fill in the Cartridge first and the list shows only ammo for that cartridge (and ammo that's safe in it, like 223 Remington for a 5.56 gun); tap Show all cartridges at the top of the list to see everything. The bullet weight, BC, diameter and length fill in from the ammo. If the ammo has no bullet length, Range Book uses its reloading recipe's, or the length saved on its bullet under Components.
• Bullet weight: from the ammo box.
• Muzzle velocity: the box number comes from a test barrel and is often 50–150 fps faster than your gun. A chronograph reading is best.
• Velocity measured at and Temp sensitivity (optional): powder burns faster when it's warm, so a load is faster in summer than in winter. Enter the temperature your velocity was measured at and how many fps it changes for every 10°F (often 5–20 fps), and the calculator adjusts the velocity for the temperature on the Conditions card. Under the profile's Range trips, a Velocity and temperature chart can work out the sensitivity from your own trips (it needs trips with an average velocity and temperatures at least 10°F apart); tap Use … in the calculator to fill it in. When you use a trip's average as the muzzle velocity, its temperature is saved as "measured at".
• Ballistic coefficient (G1): on the box or the bullet maker's website. Use the G1 number, not G7.
• Bullet diameter: e.g. .224, .243, .277, .308, .338, .357. Used for sectional density and the form-factor check below the inputs. The path itself comes from the BC.
• Zeros: the boxes at the bottom of the Bullet path card, under the chart. The first one (purple) is the point-blank zero, worked out from the target size in the Point-blank range card. Type up to three more distances to compare, each with its own color; leave one blank to hide it. Tap the circle on the zero your scope is set to: the Range table and Dope card say at the top which zero they're using.
• Scope zero: tap the circle in the zero box your scope is actually set to (that box gets a highlighted border). The range table's MOA and MIL columns and the dope card are based on it.
• Conditions (its own card, under Inputs): hot weather and high altitude make bullets drop less. For the wind, enter its speed and the o'clock it comes from (12 is straight at you, 3 from the right, 9 from the left); the calculator works out how much of it pushes the bullet sideways and which way to hold. Head and tail winds barely matter and aren't counted.
• Shot angle: for shooting up or down hill, enter the angle (either way, it's the same). Only part of the drop counts at an angle, so you hold or dial less than on level ground; the table, chart and dope card all use it. Leave it blank for level shots.
• Range table columns: under the range table, tick Adjust (MOA), Adjust (MIL) and Wind to choose which of those columns to show (Wind includes the wind brackets and spin drift). Range, velocity, energy, time and the path are always there. Your choice is remembered on that phone or computer. When you pick a gun whose scope has MOA or MIL turrets, the matching Adjust column is ticked and the other unticked (you can still tick both), and the wind column switches to MIL when only MIL is shown. Drag the bar under the table to make it taller or shorter, like the chart; double-tap it to reset.
• Spin drift is in the range table's Wind columns (in inches, to the right) and in the Spin R column of the dope card, and it's added to the reticle's hold. It needs the gun's twist and the bullet length. Until both are filled in, a Spin drift is off note shows above the range table and the dope card; tap Enter it to jump to the missing box (or Edit the ammo when the bullet comes from your ammo).
• Wind brackets: turn this on to add 5, 10 and 15 mph full-value wind holds to the range table and dope card (and Field mode), so you can hold for whatever the wind is doing without changing the inputs.

Reading the results

• Near, Far and Top: shown in each zero box. Where each path rises through 0 (near) and comes back down through it (far).
• Highest point: how far above your line of sight each path climbs, and at what range. It's listed as Top in each zero box under the chart. Handy for knowing how high you'll hit at mid ranges, or for a point-blank zero.
• Path (in): inches above (+) or below (−) your line of sight, for the zero you picked with the circle in its zero box (pick a different one and the column follows). Negative means hold or dial up.
• Adjust (MOA / MIL): how far to dial up from the zero your scope is set to.
• Wind: drift for a full-value crosswind. Hold or dial into the wind.

Point-blank range

The Point-blank range card (the Point-blank link at the top) works out the best zero for holding dead on. Enter the size of what you're shooting at, or tap 4" varmint, 6" deer or 8" elk. It finds the zero that keeps the bullet within half that size above or below your line of sight for as long as possible, and shows the near and far zero for that path (zero at either one; the far one is more forgiving), where the bullet stays on target (from how close to how far), the maximum point-blank range, and the highest point. This zero is always the first (purple) zero box under the chart, and the chart draws its path in purple, the target band as a shaded box and a line at the maximum point-blank range Tap the circle in its box to use it for the range table and dope card. It uses the profile, gun and conditions you've entered, and doesn't include wind.

G1 or G7

Pick the BC type that matches the number you have. Many long-range bullets list a G7 number (around 0.2–0.35); it's usually more accurate past 600 yd. The Reloading recipe has the same choice and sends it over with Use in calculator.

Stability and spin drift

Enter the barrel twist (1 turn in so many inches; it fills in from your gun) and the bullet length (measure one with calipers, tip to base). You then see the stability number (SG: 1.4 or more is good, under 1.0 the bullet won't fly straight) and a spin drift column. With a normal right-hand twist the bullet drifts right; add that to your wind hold.

True up the velocity

Once you've shot at long range, enter the distance and the dial that actually hit under True up velocity. It works out the muzzle velocity that matches your real drop; tap Use and the table and dope card will line up with what you saw. Use a distance well past your zero and a good group.

Weather where you are

On the Conditions card, Use the weather where I am fills in the temperature and the altitude from today's air pressure and humidity where you're standing (the altitude that gives the same air density, so humid air counts too), and tells you the density altitude, the ground's elevation and the wind. If you're within about 2 miles of one of your saved ranges that has its address, it says you're there and picks that range on the Saved ranges card. It needs a signal and the https:// (Cloudflare) address, since phones only share location with secure sites. Set the crosswind yourself, since it depends on which way you're shooting.

Print a dope card

Below the range table, Dope card makes a small card for your stock or range bag. Choose the first and last distance, how often, and whether your scope clicks in MOA or MIL (the MOA / MIL button: tap it to switch). It uses the zero your scope is set to, the conditions and the crosswind you entered. Tap Print dope card to print just the card (about 3½ in wide), or save it as a PDF from the print screen. On an iPhone, pinch out on the print preview to save or share it.

Field mode fills the screen with just the distance, how much to dial up and the wind hold, in big numbers you can read at the bench. A− and A+ change the size, Bright switches to black on white for full sun, and the screen stays on while it's open (on phones that allow it). Tap ← Back or swipe in from the left to close it.

Reticle holds

The Dope card & reticle card also draws a plain reticle with a dot where the target goes. Tap any distance on the card to see it: on an iPad or computer the reticle is right beside the card, and on a phone it slides up from the bottom, with ‹ and › buttons to step to the next distance on the card. The MOA / MIL button shows the unit in use; tap it to switch. It sets both the card and the reticle. When the profile's gun has a scope (Gear & Ranges → Scopes), the scope sets it (the button is greyed out) and the reticle can look like yours, or be a picture of it. Pick Hold it under Reticle: elevation to hold elevation and wind on the reticle, or Dial it, hold wind to dial elevation and hold only the wind. It uses the conditions and crosswind on the profile, and spin drift when the bullet length and twist are filled in. It isn't any brand's reticle, so count the marks on yours.

Saved ranges

Save the places you shoot under Gear & Ranges → Ranges: tap + New range, give it a name, its address, its usual temperature and altitude and any notes, and add each target with its distance, angle (up or down, in degrees) and size if you like. Changes save as you type. Under Dope, pick a Shooting profile to see the dial and wind for every target with it; the size column shows each target in MOA or MIL, so you can see how much room you have, and Use these conditions sets that profile's temperature and altitude to the range's usual ones. Each Shooting profile also has a Saved ranges card: pick a range there to see the same thing for that profile, and Edit ranges › takes you to the range. Range names show up under Where on range trips.

A range's address and weather

Type a range's Address (a street address, or the range's name and town) and tap Find on the map. Range Book shows what it found (up to five places, each with See it on a map) and asks which one is right: tap Yes, use it or Use this one and the full address goes into the Address box; No keeps what you had. Or tap I'm here now while you're standing at it. Range Book saves the spot, the ground's elevation (and puts it in Altitude if that's empty), and an Open in Maps link for directions. Then the range's Weather card shows today's temperature, humidity, dew point, air pressure, pressure altitude, density altitude, elevation and wind there; tap Refresh for the latest. Under Dope, and on a profile's Saved ranges card, Use today's weather here puts that weather on the profile. On a range trip whose Where is a saved range with an address, the weather button gets the weather at that range (no location needed); when you start a range day near a saved range, Where is filled in for you. The address is looked up with OpenStreetMap and the weather comes from Open-Meteo: only the address or the spot's coordinates are sent, never your name or account.

The inputs fold up on a phone

On a phone, when you open a profile the Inputs card folds into a one-line summary (bullet, velocity, BC, gun, zero, weather) so the results are near the top. Tap it, or the Inputs link, to open it and change anything. Every other card on a profile (Point-blank range, Bullet path, Range table, Dope card, Range trips and the rest) folds up too: tap its title to close or open it. The app remembers which ones you closed on that phone or computer, and the links at the top open a closed card for you.

Range trips

Every profile in the calculator has a Range trips log at the bottom (tap Range trips in the row of links at the top to jump there). Tap + New range trip and fill in what you like: date, where, distance, rounds fired, temperature, wind, average velocity and SD, and notes. Use the weather where I am fills in the temperature and wind, and notes the humidity, air pressure, density altitude and elevation (they're on the trip report too). If Where is one of your saved ranges with an address, the button says Use the weather at that range and uses its spot; if you're near a saved range and Where is empty, it fills it in. Import chronograph file reads the same RangeCraft, Garmin Xero, MagnetoSpeed and LabRadar files as Reloading; each string is kept with its shots, average, SD and ES, and the trip's average velocity and SD are worked out from all of them (tap Remove on a string you don't want). Add target photos and tap one to measure its groups, the same way as in Reloading; printed Range Book targets are read by themselves. Print a target for this trip opens a printable target with the trip's profile, date, distance and gun already filled in at the top. The trip list shows the best group from each trip and how many rounds you've logged. If you enter an average velocity, a button lets you make it this profile's muzzle velocity. Print trip report at the bottom of a trip opens a PDF with the details, notes, chronograph strings and target photos with the groups drawn on, ready to print or save. You don't need a reloading load for any of this, so it works just as well for factory ammo. Your Reloading photos and data stay where they are. In Chronograph, each string shows its shots in numbered boxes, the same as a group in Reloading. Type over a shot to fix it, tap + Shot to add one, or tap − Shot, tap the shots you want gone (a bad reading, an unused box) and tap Delete. The average, SD and ES update, and Undo puts them back. To type velocities in yourself, tap + Type in shots for a new string with 5 boxes.

Cold-bore shot

On a range trip, Cold-bore shot records where your first shot of the day landed from the aim point (right or left, high or low, in inches or cm), whether the barrel was clean or fouled, and the distance if it wasn't the trip's. Each gun's page has a Cold-bore log that plots every cold-bore shot in MOA and shows the average, so you can see whether your first shot tends to go somewhere other than your zero.

Zoom the chart

Pinch to zoom and drag with one finger to move around. A sideways pinch stretches the range, an up-and-down pinch stretches the inches. Double-tap the chart or tap Reset view to go back. On a computer, use the zoom buttons or pinch on a trackpad. Declutter hides the near and far yardage labels on the line of sight (the colored diamonds stay, and the numbers are in the zero boxes); tap it again to bring them back. The normal chart stretches the up-and-down direction a lot so you can read the drop in inches. True scale draws it at its real proportions, the same scale up and down as across, so you see how flat the bullet really flies; a 1,000 yd shot is 36,000 inches long, so even several feet of drop is a gentle curve. The up-and-down numbers switch to feet when they get big. Zooming in keeps the bullet centered and the proportions true. Tap it again to go back. Both buttons are highlighted while they're on and are remembered on this device. Drag the small bar under the chart up or down to make the chart shorter or taller (double-tap the bar to go back to the normal height). The picture doesn't stretch or squash: a taller chart shows more inches of drop and a shorter one shows fewer, so drag on a short chart to move up and down. The height is remembered on this device.

Printable targets

Under Tools → Targets (or the Tools button on Home) are targets made for Range Book. On regular Letter (8.5 × 11 in) paper: 1 big aim point, 5 aim points, and a 9-point ladder grid. On Tabloid / Ledger (11 × 17 in) paper: 1 big aim point with 1- to 4-inch rings for zeroing or long range, 6 big aim boxes, and a 12-point ladder grid. Most home printers can't print 11 × 17, but a print shop or office store can; ask for Actual size on Tabloid / Ledger paper. Bigger targets from a home printer are made of two Letter pages taped together (11 × 16 in): 1 big aim point with rings out to 5 inches, 2 big aim points with rings out to 3 inches, 4 aim points with rings out to 2 inches, and an 8-point ladder grid. Print both pages at Actual size (they print sideways), cut page 1 along its dashed line, lay it over the gray strip at the top of page 2 so the cut edge sits on the line and the grid lines meet, and tape the whole seam on the back so it lies flat. These have bigger corner squares and a small black square on each side, which is how the app knows it's a two-page target. The app tells all the sizes apart on its own when you measure a photo or use Live target. The background is a grid of 1-inch squares, and each aim point (a light red circle with a solid black center dot) sits in the middle of a square, so you can count inches by eye. The page has a 1-inch black square in each corner (the top-left one is hollow so the app knows which way is up). Tap Open PDF to print and print at Actual size (100%); the 1-inch line at the bottom should measure exactly 1 inch.

Write the charge for each aim point on its line before you shoot. Afterwards, photograph the whole page with all four squares showing, add the photo to the load, and tap Measure groups. It finds the page, sets the scale, corrects for an angled photo, and marks the holes around every aim point by itself. Aim points with no holes are left out. Check each group and pick its charge, then Save. If it doesn't find the page, tap Read printed target after a better photo, or measure by hand.

Measure sight height (height over bore)

The distance from the center of the bore to the center of the scope. It matters most at short range.

1. Unload the gun and confirm it is clear.
2. Find your scope tube size: 1 in, 30 mm (1.18 in), or 34 mm (1.34 in).
3. Just in front of the receiver, measure the barrel diameter with calipers.
4. At that same spot, measure from the top of the scope tube to the bottom of the barrel.
5. Sight height = that measurement − ½ tube diameter − ½ barrel diameter.

3.70 in total, 30 mm tube, 0.75 in barrel → 3.70 − 0.59 − 0.375 = 2.74 in

Iron sights: measure from the top of the front sight post to the bottom of the barrel there, then subtract ½ the barrel diameter. Typical values: bolt or lever gun with low rings ≈ 1.5 in, medium/high rings ≈ 1.75–2.0 in, AR with optic ≈ 2.5–2.8 in.

Reloading

Add a load

1. On the Reloading tab, tap + New load. Enter the cartridge (tap Supersonic next to it to mark a subsonic load), pick the gun, and pick the bullet, powder, primer and brass from your Components (anything not saved yet can be typed into the recipe afterward). Add the Max charge from your load manual, then tap Create and plan a ladder to go straight to the ladder planner, or Create.
2. Any group at the max charge gets an At max tag, and any group over it gets a red Over max warning.
3. Pick the Rifle you shot it in (add guns on the Gear & Ranges tab first).
4. Under Ladder tests, tap + Add group in a ladder for each charge weight you test and enter the charge (or let the ladder planner make them all).
5. Type each shot's FPS. Press Enter on the last box (or tap + Shot) to add another shot. Average, SD, extreme spread and energy fill in as you type. Groups start with 5 boxes. To get rid of some, say if you only fired 4 or a reading is bad, tap − Shot, tap each shot you want gone (they turn red and crossed out), then tap Delete. The shots after them move up, and Undo puts them back. A box left blank isn't counted either. Range trips work the same way.
6. Enter each group's size in Group size (center to center of the two widest holes), or measure it from a target photo (below). The Distance is entered once at the top of the ladder. The MOA is worked out for you, so groups shot at different distances can be compared.

Reloading notes

Reloading → Notes is for anything that isn't about one load: die and press settings, what to order, ideas to try, a powder that's back in stock. Tap + New note, give it a title if you like (otherwise its first line is the title) and type. It saves as you go. Pin a note to keep it at the top, search them from the box above the list, and delete one from the bottom of the note (with an Undo). Notes are private and are included when you export your data.

Develop and Load

Each load has two views, switched at the top. Develop is for working it up: the recipe, ladder tests, ladder planner, summary, charts and target photos. Load is the finished load as a load sheet you can't edit: the charge and powder, bullet, primer, brass, trim length, COAL, bullet diameter, your manual's max and the gun, with the velocity and best group at that charge, Use in calculator, and Loaded rounds for logging batches. To change anything on it, go back to Develop.

When your groups show what works, tap This is my load next to that charge in the Summary, or use Create the load at the bottom of Develop. That charge becomes the working charge: the load opens on Load from then on, and the charge is filled in for you when you log a batch, add the load to your ammo, work out the cost per round or send it to the calculator. To pick another, use Ready to load it? on Develop again.

Turn on Locked (on Develop) once a load is done. That locks the whole Develop page (recipe, groups, photos, sharing) except Ready to load it?, which moves to the top of the page so you can still pick a different working charge. A locked load can't be deleted, updating a component under Components leaves it alone, and you can still log batches on Load. Turn Locked off to make changes.

In the recipe, a bullet, powder, primer or brass picked from Components shows as one tinted line with its details. The bullet's weight, length, diameter and BC come from the saved bullet, so you change them in one place (under Components, then tap Update there). Tap Change to pick a different one or type it in, and Done to fold it back to one line.

Finding your way around a load

The buttons under a load's name (Recipe, Summary, Charts, Targets, Ladder tests) jump straight to that part of the page. Once a load has velocities, its recipe folds up into a one-line summary; tap Recipe to open it again.

Inventory

Every bullet, powder and primer under Reloading → Components has an On hand amount (count for bullets and primers, pounds for powder) and a Warn when level. On a reloading load, the Loaded rounds section (the Loaded link at the top) logs each batch you load: how many rounds, the charge, the brass lot and the date. Logging it takes the bullets, primers and powder (rounds × charge) out of inventory (a ladder test does the same with Take components out of inventory), as long as the recipe uses saved components with an amount filled in. Remove on a batch puts them back. Anything that drops below its warning level shows as Low on the Components list and on Home.

Cost per round

Each component also has a Cost section: what you paid and for how many (a box of 100 bullets, an 8 lb jug of powder, a brick of 1,000 primers). For brass, the price is spread over how many times you expect to load each case (5 if you leave it blank). The Loaded rounds section on a load then shows what each round costs, with the bullet, powder (at the charge you enter), primer and brass broken out, and each batch you log keeps its total cost.

Brass lots

Under Reloading → Components → Brass, add a lot for each batch of cases you keep together. Enter how many cases, how many times they'd been loaded before Range Book, and when you last annealed and trimmed them (Annealed today and Trimmed today fill in the date). Each batch you log with that lot adds one to its load count. The old 5.56 → 300 Blackout headstamp notes are folded up at the bottom of the Brass list; tap them to open.

Components: bullets, powders and primers

Reloading → Components keeps the components you use: bullets (maker, name, the caliber as sold like 38 Special or 30 cal, the actual diameter like .357 used for the math, weight, BC, BC type, length), powders, primers and brass lots. Tap + Add to enter one, or Add the … from my loads to fill the list from recipes you've already entered. For powders, Add a powder from the list has about 150 popular ones from Hodgdon, IMR, Winchester, Alliant, Accurate, Ramshot, Vihtavuori and Norma, grouped by maker, with a search box at the top (type a name, maker or kind, like "h4350" or "alliant ball"); picking one fills in the maker, name and kind (ball, extruded or flake) for you. The same names are suggested as you type a powder into a recipe, and a listed name fills in its maker. If you change a saved bullet, powder or primer later (a corrected BC, a new name), its Loads card marks the loads that still have the old details; tap Update to copy the new details into them, along with any reloaded ammo made from them. A recipe that's out of date also shows Update this recipe under that component. Inside a load, the Components › button at the right end of the shortcut bar takes you straight to Components, with a ‹ Back to button to return to that load. The recipe's Brass can be picked from your saved brass lots the same way; it fills in the brass and its case length (add a Case length to the lot under Components), and makes that lot the default when you log a batch. COAL stays with each load, since it depends on the bullet and seating depth.

In a recipe, pick a saved component from the shaded box above the Bullet, Primer or Powder fields; it fills in the details for you (for a bullet: weight, BC, length and diameter too). You can still type everything by hand. If you type one that isn't saved yet, a Save to Components button appears so you can keep it for next time. Cartridges you type are remembered too, and the cartridge and maker boxes suggest what you've used before as you type.

Ladder tests

A load's groups live in Ladder tests. Each ladder (Ladder 1, Ladder 2 and so on) is one batch you loaded and shot, kept separate from the others. At the top of each ladder are its Loaded date, Tested date, Temperature (°F) and Distance, entered once for the whole ladder. Each ladder can have its own distance, and every group in it uses that distance for its MOA. Under them are its groups, one per charge, then its target photos. Inside a ladder, + Add group adds another charge, and Import chronograph file as new group brings in velocities as new groups in that ladder. Delete ladder removes the ladder and its groups (with an Undo). Tap a ladder's title to fold it down to its title and summary line, and tap again to open it; each phone or computer remembers which ones you folded.

Once you've loaded a ladder, tap Take components out of inventory under its dates. It works like logging a batch: one round for each shot box at each charge, so it takes that many bullets and primers, plus the powder for every charge, out of your Components. Pick the Brass lot you used and that lot's load count goes up by one. The ladder then shows what it took. Put them back undoes it, say if you change the ladder and want to log it again. Ladder rounds aren't added to your ammo inventory, since you shoot them for the test. Deleting a ladder doesn't change your inventory, so tap Put them back first if you never loaded it.

To start another ladder, tap Plan a new ladder at the bottom of Ladder tests, or + Empty ladder to set up the groups yourself. Your first ladder stays as it was. When a load has more than one ladder, the Summary and Velocity by charge show one ladder at a time (the newest to start); pick another, or All ladders, from Showing at the top of them. Tap Combine matching charges to see each charge once, with every shot at that charge from all your ladders pooled: the average velocity, SD and ES come from all of them, and the group is the average of the groups you measured at that charge. Your ladders and their shots aren't changed; tap it again to go back.

Plan a ladder test

Under Ladder tests, tap Plan a new ladder. Enter the first charge, the step and the last charge (it starts with your manual's max) plus how many shots per charge. It shows every charge first, flagging any over max, then Create ladder makes a new ladder with a group for each charge, ready for your chronograph import. (On a brand-new load, it fills the empty Ladder 1 instead of adding a second one.)

The planner has a Distance, a Loaded date (today to start) and a Tested date you can leave blank until you shoot. They go at the top of the new ladder, where you can change them later.

To label the box of ladder rounds, tap Print a label in the planner (or Ladder label in a ladder once its groups exist; it uses that ladder's charges and dates). One 3.5 × 2 in label holds the recipe and every charge, numbered in order with a box to tick as you load each one, plus shots per charge, distance, the loaded date and the tested date (or a blank line to write it on).

Velocity by charge

Once two or more groups have charges and shots, the Velocity by charge chart plots average speed for each charge, with a bar showing ± one SD. Look for a flat spot where adding powder barely changes the speed: that's usually the most forgiving charge. Under the chart, the fps gained per grain between each step is listed. The dashed red line is your max charge. Groups with a size also get a purple diamond showing their MOA on the right-hand scale, so you can see which charge shot tightest.

Pressure signs

Each group in a ladder has Pressure signs: tap any you saw on that charge's cases or bolt (flat or cratered primers, ejector marks, a heavy bolt lift, sticky extraction, loose primer pockets), and enter case head expansion if you measure it. A charge with any of them gets a ! triangle on the Velocity by charge chart and a pressure signs tag in the Summary, and they're listed in the Excel and PDF exports. This is a notebook, not a pressure gauge: pressure can be dangerous with no visible signs at all, so always stay within your load manual.

Import from your chronograph

Set up a group for each charge weight in the ladder first. Then tap Import chronograph file on the ladder's first group and pick the export from your RangeCraft (.xlsx), Garmin Xero (ShotView .csv or .xlsx) MagnetoSpeed (LOG.CSV from the V3's memory card, or the .csv from the XFR app) or LabRadar (the SR0001 Report.csv files from its SD card; pick several at once and each series fills its own group, SR0001 first). Each string fills the next empty group in that ladder in the order you shot them (Range Book puts the strings in time order, since some chronographs, like Garmin's, list the newest first). If you named each string with its charge weight on the chronograph (like "25.9gr N140"), it goes straight to the group with that charge instead, wherever it is in the ladder. If the ladder has no tested date yet, it takes the date from the file when the file has one (MagnetoSpeed's memory-card file doesn't, so set that date yourself). Check that each string landed on the right charge weight. If the chronograph caught a bad reading (a miss or an echo), tap − Shot, tap that shot and tap Delete.

Target photos

Each target photo belongs to the ladder you shot it with. Tap + Photo in that ladder (or next to the ladder's name on the Targets card) to take a picture or choose one. The Targets card shows the photos under each ladder, and each ladder shows its own photos too. Tap a photo to see it full size, add a caption, delete it, or move it to another ladder with Shot with. When you measure groups on a photo, you pick from that ladder's charges. Photos added before ladders existed are linked for you when the app can tell which ladder they go with; open any that say Pick a ladder and choose one.

To keep a copy of a target photo, open it and tap Download photo (the picture as taken) or Download with marks (with the measured shots and groups drawn on it). On a phone it opens the share sheet, so you can Save Image to your photos, save it to Files or send it; on a computer it downloads.

Measure groups from a photo

One photo can hold several groups, each with its own aim point and charge weight. Measuring gives you two sizes: the group size (center to center of the two widest holes) and the mean radius, the average distance of every hole from the group's center. Mean radius uses every shot, so it's a steadier way to compare charges, especially with small groups. Both show on each group and in the Summary, along with how far the group's center is from your aim point (for a zero check). Typing a group size by hand clears the photo's mean radius, since it no longer matches.

1. Tap a target photo, then Measure groups.
2. Scale (once per photo): tap two points a known distance apart, such as two grid lines 1 inch apart, and enter that distance in Scale (in). Check Distance (yd) too.
3. Aim: tap the first group's aim point.
4. Box: drag a box around that group's shots. It tries to mark the holes inside. Entering Shots fired first helps; it fills in from the charge's chronograph shots when it can.
5. Shots: check every mark. Tap a wrong one to remove it, tap a missed hole to add it, drag a mark to move it. Holes that touch usually need adding by hand. Pinch to zoom.
6. Under This group is, pick the charge weight it goes with.
7. Tap + Group for the next group and repeat from the aim point. Tap a group's chip (or any of its marks) to go back to it.
8. Tap Save. Each matched charge gets its group size, distance, mean radius and where the group's center landed from the aim point, and the group MOA shows on the Velocity by charge chart.

Group size is center to center of the two farthest shots, the same as calipers across the outside edges minus one bullet width.

Live target (phone on a spotting scope)

Range Book can watch a printed Range Book target through your phone's camera and mark each shot as it lands. Put the phone on the spotting scope with an adapter so it holds still, and aim the scope so the whole page and all four corner squares are in the picture. It needs Range Book's https address (the camera doesn't work on a plain http address).

1. In a ladder, tap Live target (next to + Photo). From a range trip, use Live target next to + Add target photo. To use it without a load, open Tools → Live target.
2. Allow the camera. On a phone with more than one back lens, it uses the main lens so it doesn't keep jumping between lenses up close to the eyepiece; pick another under Camera lens if you like (it's remembered on that phone). Through a spotting scope the page often looks gray and washed out; Range Book allows for that, but zoom the scope so the page fills more of the view if it can't find the corner squares. When it finds the four corner squares it says Target locked and zooms in on aim point 1. It still watches the whole page, and widens the view by itself if a shot lands outside the zoom. Tap Whole target (or the small picture in the corner) to see the whole page, and Zoom to aim to go back.
3. Check Charge for this aim, Shots and Distance.
4. Fire, then tap Shot. It compares the page with how it looked before the shot and marks the new hole, numbered, with the group size, MOA, mean radius and where the group's center is from the aim point. A hole in the black center counts too.
5. If it misses a hole, tap the hole on the picture to add it. Tap a wrong mark to remove it. Undo takes back the last change.
6. After the last shot for that aim point it shows the group. Tap Next to move to the next aim point and charge, or use ‹ Aim and Next aim › any time.
7. Tap Save when you're done. It saves one photo of the target with every group measured, the same as Measure groups, and each charge gets its group size, mean radius and distance. You can open the photo and edit the marks later. (From Tools, it's kept under Tools → Live target → Saved until you move it to a range trip or a ladder.)

Not a Range Book target? Live target works on any paper or board. Tap Not a Range Book target? on the camera picture, tap the target's four corners (top-left first, then clockwise), pick or type its size, then tap each aim point in the order you'll shoot them and tap Done. Without the corner squares it can't follow the target if the phone moves, so keep it still; if it does move, tap Tap corners again. Your marks stay put.

Control it from your iPad (or any phone, tablet or computer signed in to your account), so you don't touch the phone on the scope: on the phone's Live target screen, tap Remote. On the iPad, open Tools → Live target and tap Watch. The iPad shows the phone's screen, updated about twice a second, with the group numbers, and its Shot, Undo, Next aim, Whole target and Save buttons work the phone. Tapping a hole on the iPad's picture adds or removes a mark on the phone. Both need a signal to reach your Range Book (an iPad on the iPhone's hotspot counts). Keep the phone's screen on. Tap Remote again on the phone to stop sharing; nothing from it is kept.

Listen for shots uses the microphone: each loud bang counts as a shot, so you don't have to tap Shot. Turn it on only when nobody is shooting near you, because their shots count too. The bar next to it shows how loud the last sound was, and the white mark is how loud a shot has to be. Pick a Sensitivity: Normal for an unsuppressed rifle, Suppressed for a rifle with a suppressor (still loud, but less of a crack), or Quiet .22 for a suppressed .22 or subsonic loads. If your shots don't reach the mark, pick the next one. The more sensitive it is, the more other noises count, so use the least sensitive one that hears every shot. It remembers your choice.

It works best in good, even light. At long distances a phone may not see small holes clearly; add them by tapping. Keep the phone and scope still: if the page moves a lot, wait a moment for it to find the corners again.

Shot by shot: which shots were fast or slow

When you shoot a ladder with Live target, it remembers the order of the holes. Once that group has its chronograph velocities (typed in or imported, in the order you fired), the group shows Shot by shot: each shot's velocity next to where it hit, and a small chart of height against velocity. It tells you whether faster shots hit higher (or lower), and by how much per 10 fps, so you can see how much of your up-and-down spread comes from velocity. If a hole or a velocity is missing the pairs shift, so check that the chronograph caught every shot. Editing the marks in Measure groups keeps the order.

Use a load in the calculator

In a load's Summary, tap Use in calculator on a group. It makes a new Shooting profile with that bullet weight, average velocity, the ballistic coefficient from the recipe, and the sight height of the gun you picked. Anything missing, fill in on the Shooting tab.

Other tools

• Duplicate recipe copies a load without its shots, batches or working charge, handy for a retest. Pick a different powder or bullet there to start working up a variation.
• Your brass headstamp ratings are under Reloading → Components → Brass, folded up at the bottom.
• Shot velocities are whole numbers. A decimal you type is rounded when you leave the box.

Share a load

Open the load and tick people under Sharing. They can see the load, its velocities and photos but can't change anything. Untick to stop sharing. Loads shared with you appear under Shared with me; use Duplicate recipe to make your own editable copy.

Back up, export and import

Tap More → Account (or Account at the top on a computer). Download backup saves everything in your account in one .zip file, photos included. Download Excel and Download PDF are for reading and printing (the PDF includes your target photos).

To bring data back in, or move it to another Range Book, use Import on the same page and pick a backup or an Excel export (Excel files don't carry photos). Importing adds to your account: anything already there is left alone and nothing is deleted, so importing the same file twice doesn't double anything.

Import from a spreadsheet

To add a lot of gear at once, tap Account → Import from a spreadsheet (or Import from a spreadsheet on the Gear & Ranges and Components lists). Download the template gets an Excel file with a tab each for guns, scopes, lowers, uppers, barrels, factory ammo, bullets, powders, primers and brass, with drop-down lists for cartridges and other choices, and a tip on columns like Twist when you click a cell. To bring in a gun built from a lower and an upper, list them on the Lowers and Uppers tabs, then on the Guns tab fill in its Lower and Upper columns (Manufacturer and Model can stay blank; it's named after the lower, and its specs come from the upper). Several rows with the same lower become one gun with several uppers. On the Barrels tab, On gun is the complete gun the barrel goes on. They can name gear that's already in Range Book or a row in the same file. Fill it in with Excel, Numbers or Google Sheets, save it as .xlsx (or a single tab as .csv), and pick it with Choose a file to import. Your own spreadsheet works too: Range Book matches the columns by their headings (Make and Model are joined into a gun's name, S/N is the serial number, and so on).

Nothing is saved until you tap Import, and before then it asks about anything it isn't sure of: a column it doesn't recognize (pick what it is, add it to Notes, or leave it out), a cartridge, BC type, primer size or scope it doesn't know (pick the right one, or keep it as typed), a number or date it can't read (fix it, or leave it blank), and anything already in Range Book (the same gun by serial number or name, the same scope, ammo or component). For those it shows what's different and you pick Skip, Update it (only the boxes filled in on the spreadsheet change) or Add as new; rows that match exactly are left alone. Download it with my gear filled in gets a copy of everything you have, so you can fix things in the spreadsheet and import it back as updates.

Gear & Ranges

Guns

The Gear & Ranges tab lists your guns under Guns. The list is grouped by type: rifles, then pistols, then shotguns. Tap the star on a gun to make it a favorite: favorites are listed first, under ★ Favorites, and come first in Home's Most used guns (a gun's page has the same star at the top). Tap + Add gun or tap a gun to open it, fill in its Manufacturer and Model (the gun is listed and picked everywhere by the two together, like Tikka T3x Lite), pick its Type (Rifle, Pistol or Shotgun; when you fill in the cartridge first, Range Book guesses it, and you can tap another), then fill in the Cartridge it's chambered for, its serial number, barrel, twist rate, sight height and notes. Under Photos, tap + Add photos to keep pictures of the gun; the first one shows in your list of guns. Gun photos and serial numbers are private to you, and the serial numbers are included when you export your data, which is handy for insurance. To export just your guns, tap Export Excel or Export PDF at the top of the Guns list: the spreadsheet has one row per gun (serial number, barrel, twist, round count, barrel life, cleaning), and the PDF has a summary table, then a page for each gun with its details, notes and photos. Each gun's page also lists the Reloading loads, Shooting profiles and range trips that use it; tap one to jump to it. When a load has a gun picked, Use in calculator also brings that gun's sight height across.

Lowers, uppers and built guns

For ARs and other guns made of a lower and an upper, add each part under Gear & Ranges → Guns → Lowers & uppers. A lower has its manufacturer, model and serial number, with no caliber. An upper has its cartridge, barrel length, twist, sight height and scope. Then put a lower and an upper together to make a gun: tap + Add gun and choose A lower + an upper under Made as (or tap Make a gun with this lower or upper on either one), and pick them. The gun takes the upper's specs and the lower's serial number, and you can rename it. Put more than one upper on the same lower and they become variations of one gun: the Guns list shows it once, with a chip for each upper's cartridge (tap a chip to open that one), and its page has an Uppers row to switch between them, plus + Add upper to add another. The gun's name is shared by all of them, and each variation is shown as the name plus its cartridge (Aero Precision M4E1 · 300 Blackout; when two uppers have the same cartridge, the barrel length or the upper's name tells them apart). Each variation keeps its own type, notes, photos and loads. On Shooting and Reloading the gun picker groups the variations under the gun's name, and Start a range day asks which upper you're shooting. The Upper list starts each upper with its cartridge and is sorted by it, so you can tell them apart. In the Guns list, a lower that's already in a gun and a barrel that's on a gun are shaded, so the ones still free stand out.

Each lower and upper keeps its own round count (and uppers their barrel life), from the range trips and load-development groups shot with any gun built with it. Trips and ladders remember the lower and upper they were shot with, so if you change a gun's upper later, old rounds stay where they were. The gun's own count includes everything shot as that gun.

Barrels

Swap barrels on a complete gun? Add each one under Gear & Ranges → Guns → Barrels (or + Add barrel on the gun's page) and pick the gun it goes on. Each barrel can have its own cartridge, length, twist, sight height and scope; leave a box blank to use the gun's. You can move a barrel to another gun, and its round count goes with it. When you pick a gun that has barrels on Shooting, Reloading or Start a range day, Range Book asks which barrel you're using, or The gun as it is, and uses its specs. Trips and ladders remember the barrel, and each barrel keeps its own round count, barrel life and cleaning reminder.

The guns export has a Lowers uppers barrels tab, and each gun shows what it's built from.

Cartridges

Tools → Cartridges shows the whole list: search it, or tap Rifle, Handgun or Rimfire. It's for reference only, so don't trust it over your gun's barrel stamp, a current load manual and the SAAMI drawing. Tap a cartridge to change any of its numbers or names if you find a mistake: a changed box turns your accent color and says changed, with Revert to … to put the original back (or Revert all changes). Tap + Add a cartridge for one that isn't listed (a wildcat, say); yours are listed under Yours with a ✕ to delete them. Your changes and additions are used everywhere in Range Book and sync to your other devices.

Range Book knows about 115 rifle, handgun and rimfire cartridges. Wherever you enter a cartridge (a gun, a reloading recipe, factory or reloaded ammo, a Shooting profile), start typing any name for it, like 3006, 308 Win, 7.62 NATO or 6.5 CM, and pick it from the list. It's saved under its standard name (30-06 Springfield, 308 Winchester and so on), so loads group together, and the bullet diameter fills in if it's empty. Under the box you'll see the bullet it takes and the SAAMI (or C.I.P.) maximum case length and overall length. A cartridge that isn't in the list (a wildcat, say) can still be typed in; just enter the bullet diameter yourself. Cartridges you'd already typed with another name for a listed one were switched to its standard name.

Warnings: Range Book checks that things fit, and warns you (it doesn't stop you) when they don't:

• A Shooting profile whose ammo isn't right for its gun gets a warning at the top and a Check cartridge tag in the list. So does a reloading recipe whose gun is chambered for something else.
• Some ammo is safe in another chamber but not the other way around, and Range Book knows which: 38 Special in a 357 Magnum, 223 Remington in a 5.56 NATO (both in a 223 Wylde), 44 Special in a 44 Magnum, 45 Colt in a 454 Casull or 460 S&W, 32 H&R and 32 S&W Long in a 327 Federal, 22 Short and Long in a 22 LR, 280 Remington in a 280 Ackley Improved, and others. The reverse (357 Magnum in a 38 Special gun, 5.56 in a 223-only gun) is flagged as dangerous, and so is 300 Blackout with a 5.56/.223 gun. 308 Winchester and 7.62x51mm NATO pass, but check your gun's manual.
• A bullet whose diameter doesn't match the cartridge (a .308" bullet in a 7.62x39, say), a case length over the maximum, and a COAL longer than the SAAMI maximum (common when seating close to the lands, so make sure it fits your magazine and chamber).

Always confirm against your gun's barrel stamp and a current load manual: this list is a check, not a replacement for them.

Round count and barrel life

Each gun's page has a Round count. It adds the rounds from range trips on Shooting profiles that use that gun, the shots in your load-development groups on Reloading loads that use it, and the Rounds before Range Book you enter. Fill in Barrel life to see a bar of how much is used (it turns red at 80%, and Home warns you). Set Clean every and tap Cleaned today after cleaning to see the rounds since then; Home tells you when it's due. When you fit a new barrel, set Barrel fitted on to that date and Rounds before Range Book to 0.

Scopes

Gear & Ranges → Scopes keeps your scopes. Each scope and suppressor has a Picture at the top of its Details: tap + Add picture (or Replace picture, or Remove), and it shows on the list. A scope's picture is separate from the picture of its reticle. Tap + Add scope and search the list of about 90 popular scopes (type a maker, a model, or MIL or MOA) to fill in the power, focal plane, units, click value and reticle name from the maker's published specs, or tap + Enter a scope yourself. Check the click value against your turrets (a few makers don't publish it, so it shows as Not published until you pick yours). If your turrets aren't in the same units as the reticle (a MIL reticle with MOA turrets, say), set Turrets: the dope card then dials in the turret's units and the reticle holds stay in the reticle's. Put it on a gun with On gun on the scope's page, or with Scope on the gun's page (a gun has one scope). Every Shooting profile that uses that gun then takes its MOA or MIL from the scope, so the dope card's Scope clicks in switch follows it, and the scope's name goes on the card.

Second focal plane scopes have marks that are only their true size at one power, often the highest (the scope's manual says). Enter it in Marks true at power. On the dope card's reticle a Scope power picker then works out the hold in marks for the power you're on; at the true power it's the same as the MIL or MOA.

Make the reticle look like yours

Range Book's reticle is a plain one, not any brand's design. Tap Change how it looks (on the scope's page, or under the reticle on the dope card) to open a window with a preview where you pick where the main marks are, the small marks between them, the holdover dots (a full grid, a tree that widens as it goes down, or none), the numbers, the center (lines that meet, an open center, or an open center with a dot) and the line thickness. Back to the standard look undoes it.

Your own reticle picture

For your exact reticle, use a picture of it. On the scope's page, under Reticle, pick A picture of my reticle and tap + Upload a picture: a straight-on picture of just the reticle, like the drawing in the scope's manual or on the maker's website (a screenshot is fine). Then set its scale: tap the exact center of the crosshair, tap a mark on the line a known distance away (the farther the better, like the 5 MIL mark), and enter that distance. + zooms in so you can place them exactly, and Center or Mark lets you move one. Tap Save, and the dope card puts the dot on your own reticle. The picture is private to you and is in your backups. Set the scale redoes it, and Remove picture goes back to the plain reticle.

Ammunition

Gear & Ranges → Ammo keeps the ammo you shoot, in two lists: Reloaded ammo and Factory ammo. Each one counts the rounds you have on hand (loaded or bought, minus what your range trips fire) and can warn you when you're running low.

Subsonic ammo: the button next to Cartridge says Supersonic; tap it and it changes to Subsonic (tap again to switch back). Do the same on a reloading recipe, next to its Cartridge. Subsonic recipes and ammo get a Subsonic tag in the Reloading and Ammo lists, and so does any Shooting profile that uses that ammo. Reloaded ammo made from a recipe follows the recipe's setting.

Reloaded ammo

Each batch in the batch history has a Label button (and one appears right after you log a batch): it shows a label with the load name, bullet, powder and charge, primer, brass lot, COAL, velocity, date and round count. Pick how many copies and tap Print labels; they print 3.5 × 2 in (business-card size), ten to a page, on plain paper or Avery 5371/5376-style card stock or labels.

To compare loads, tap Compare loads at the top of the Reloading list and pick up to three. A table shows the components, the working charge (or the last one used) with its velocity, SD, ES and group, the best group and lowest SD at any charge, cost per round and rounds loaded. The lowest SD, ES, group size and cost are highlighted. Tap a load's name to open it.

To keep count of rounds you've loaded, open a recipe on the Reloading tab, switch to Load and log a batch in Loaded rounds. The first batch at a charge adds the load to your ammo inventory, copying the bullet, BC, powder, primer and brass from the recipe and the velocity from your groups at that charge. Each later batch at the same charge adds to the count, removing a batch takes it back off, and range trips with it count it down. The card shows how many you have on hand, and the batch history folds away underneath. You can also start one from Ammunition → + Reloaded ammo: pick a recipe, or choose None: I'll pick the parts myself, then pick the bullet, powder, primer and brass from your Components and fill in the charge. Each part shows its details underneath (weight, BC, diameter, kind, case length, on hand, cost); tap Edit to change them on the Components page, then ‹ Back to to return. + Create new at the top of each list makes a new component and opens it so you can fill it in. An entry can also be linked to a recipe later with Fill in from this recipe. Once you've loaded it, turn on Locked at the top so the recipe (name, cartridge, bullet, powder, charge, primer, brass and COAL) can't be changed by accident, not even by an Update from Components; the rounds, velocity and notes stay editable. Duplicate at the bottom makes an unlocked copy (with no rounds yet) to start a new one from. The cost per round comes from the prices on your components, or type it in. Use in calculator makes a Shooting profile from it, just like factory ammo.

Factory ammo

On Gear & Ranges → Ammo, tap a caliber under Browse by caliber (they're grouped into Rifle, Handgun and Rimfire) to see what's available, or type in the search box. There are about 155 popular loads in 56 cartridges, from 17 HMR to 50 BMG (Hornady, Federal, Sig Sauer, Remington, CCI, Speer, Nosler and Barnes; rifle, rimfire and handgun) with the bullet, BC and box velocity already filled in from the maker's published data (Nosler and Barnes velocities come from gun-shop listings instead, with the BC from the makers' bullet data); tap one to add it to your list. Not listed? Tap + Enter factory ammo yourself and fill in the maker, cartridge, bullet, weight, BC, the velocity on the box (and your measured velocity if you've chronographed it), plus rounds bought, price and lot number. Use in calculator (pick the gun first if you like) makes a profile on the Shooting tab with those numbers. You can also pick the ammo in a Shooting profile's Ammunition box. Tap it to open a short list: your reloaded ammo, your factory ammo, and the catalog loads for that load's cartridge. Type in its search box (a maker, powder, bullet weight or cartridge) to search everything, including the whole catalog. Picking a catalog load fills in the numbers and adds it to your Ammunition for you. The range trips you log on that profile count down your rounds on hand (bought minus fired), and + Bought more adds a new box. Set Warn when fewer than and Home tells you when you're running low. If your range trips have average velocities, it offers to use their average as your measured velocity.

Sharing factory loads

Entered a factory load that isn't in the catalog? Open it and tick Share this load with everyone on this Range Book. It shares the maker, product, cartridge, bullet, weight, BC, diameter, box velocity and its box photo; your rounds, price, lot, measured velocity and notes stay private. Changes you make later update the shared copy, and unticking it (or deleting the ammo) removes it. Shared loads show up in their caliber's box under Browse by caliber and in searches, shaded and marked SHARED with the person's name so you can tell them from the maker's data; tap one to add it to their own list. You can remove your own shared loads there, and admins can remove any of them. If someone's account is deleted, the loads they shared (and their box photos) stay for everyone, listed as shared by a former member.

Box photos

Open any factory ammo and tap + Add a photo of the box. A quick phone snap is fine; it's shrunk before it's saved. If the ammo came from the catalog, the photo is shared with everyone on this Range Book, so the next person can tell at a glance it's the right box, and it shows next to that load in the catalog. Photos of ammo you entered yourself stay private. You can delete your own photos; admins can delete any shared photo that doesn't match (there's a list of them all on the Admin page).

The tabs along the top are Guns, Scopes, Suppressors, Ammo, Inventory and Ranges. On a phone the row scrolls sideways.

Suppressors

Add each suppressor under Gear & Ranges → Suppressors with its maker, model, caliber rating, serial number and the date the tax stamp was approved. If it lives on one gun, pick that gun under On gun (or pick the suppressor on the gun's page, like a scope); it's then filled in on that gun's new range trips. If it moves between guns, leave it off: each range trip has a Suppressor box where you pick the one you shot, and you can always change it there. The trip's rounds count toward that suppressor, so each one keeps its own round count (add Rounds before Range Book for what it had already seen), with a cleaning reminder like a gun's. Its page lists the range trips shot with it.

Inventory

Gear & Ranges → Inventory keeps track of the rest of your gear. + Add supplies is for things that get used up (batteries, target pasters, earplugs, patches and solvent, hand warmers): give it a count and Warn when at or below, and use − 1 used and + 1 to keep the count right. + Add equipment is for things you keep (a chronograph, rangefinder, bipod, magazines, cases) with a serial number, price, date bought and photos, handy for insurance. Either can have a category, where it's kept, a gun it goes with and a Check or replace by date that can repeat (a battery every year, a hunting license, a first-aid kit). Low supplies and dates within two weeks are listed first under Needs attention, and on Home. When you've done it, tap Done and a repeating date moves to the next one.

Document vault

Suppressors, guns and inventory items have a Documents card for papers like a tax stamp, a receipt or a manual (PDFs or pictures, up to 15 MB). The first time, tap Set up the vault and choose a vault passphrase. It isn't your sign-in password: use something long you don't use anywhere else, like four or five random words. Every document is locked (encrypted) on your phone or computer with that passphrase before it's uploaded, so the server only ever holds scrambled data. Nobody can open your documents without the passphrase: not the person who runs this server, not an admin (even one who resets your password), not someone with your backup file, and not Range Book's maker. That also means a forgotten passphrase can't be recovered, and neither can the documents, so keep the originals somewhere too.

To see or add documents, tap Unlock and type the passphrase. On a computer Open shows the document in a new tab; on a phone it unlocks it, then a second tap opens the share sheet to view, print or save it. The vault locks itself after 15 minutes, when you tap Lock, or when you close Range Book. Account → Document vault shows how many documents you have and lets you change the passphrase (your documents stay as they are). Your backup file includes the vault, still locked: restoring it brings the documents back, and they open with the same passphrase. One caution: whoever controls the server could, in theory, change Range Book's code to capture a passphrase as it's typed, so only use the vault on a Range Book run by someone you trust.

Tools

Tools (a tab on a computer, or More → Tools on a phone, or the Tools button on Home) holds quick calculators, one tile each with a line about what it does. Tap a tile to open that tool, and ‹ Tools (or swiping back) to return to the tiles. Nothing in Tools is saved: change a number and the answer updates.

• Compare trajectories: up to six bullets on one chart, all with the same zero, sight height, temperature and altitude. Type each one's weight, velocity and BC, or fill it in from a Shooting profile, your ammo or the factory catalog. Switch the chart between Path (above or below your line of sight), Dial (MOA or MIL to dial up), Wind (drift in a 10 mph crosswind), Speed and Energy, and between Short, Medium and Long (200, 400 or 1,000 yd). The table under the chart has each bullet's numbers. Each line has its own color and dash pattern, so they're easy to tell apart in Red Night too. It remembers your bullets on that phone or computer; Reset starts over.
• Chronograph file check: pick your chronograph's export to see how Range Book reads it before you import it: each string's shots, average, SD, spread and time, in the order they were shot, and which ladder charge it would go to when its name has a charge. Nothing is imported or saved. If a file doesn't read right, this is the screen to show when you report it.
• Trajectory calculator (also the Trajectory calculator button on Home): the whole Shooting calculator without making a profile. Pick a gun and ammo (your own, or anything from the factory catalog, which here only fills in its numbers) or type the bullet weight, velocity, BC and sight height, and every card works the same as on a profile: conditions and wind, bullet path and zeros, point-blank range, range table, true-up, dope card and saved ranges. Nothing is saved to your profiles; this device remembers the last numbers so it opens where you left off. Reset clears it for new numbers (Undo brings them back), and Save as a Shooting profile keeps it as a profile, so it gets range trips too, and opens it on Shooting.
• Stability: will a bullet be stable in your barrel's twist? Pick a Bullet from your Components and a Gun (for its twist) side by side, or type the numbers in. On a Shooting profile, Check barrel twist (under Inputs) opens it filled in from that profile. It shows the Miller stability number (1.5 or more is fully stable, 1.0 to 1.5 marginal, under 1.0 the bullet will likely tumble) and the slowest twist that fully stabilizes that bullet. Colder air and lower altitude make the number smaller, so check it for the coldest day you'll shoot.
• MOA/MIL: turn a group size or hold into MOA and MIL at a distance, or an angle back into a size.
• Powder: how many rounds a container of powder makes at your charge, what the powder costs per round, and how much you need for a number of rounds. Fill in from uses a Reloading load's charge and, if its powder has a price in Components, the price.
• Convert: grains and grams, fps and m/s, inches and millimetres, yards and metres, foot-pounds and joules. Type in either box.
• Hit chance: your odds of a first-round hit on a target at a distance. Pick a Shooting profile (it uses its trajectory and conditions), the target size, and what throws the shot off: your 5-shot group size, your velocity SD, and how far off your wind call and range could be. It shows the chance, a picture of the likely spread on the target, what would help most (a perfect wind call, a tighter group…), and the same target at other distances. On a Shooting profile, Hit chance at a distance under the dope card opens it for that profile.
• Live target: the spotting-scope camera without a profile, load or range trip. Set the bullet diameter, distance and shots per aim point, tap Start Live target, and use it the same way (see Live target under Reloading). Save keeps the target photo and its measured groups in your Range Book, listed under Saved on that page (with no signal, it waits on the phone and uploads later). Tap a saved one to see it, fix its marks with Edit measurement, or bring it into a range trip or a reloading ladder with Move to. A range trip also has + Saved Live target. After saving, Share picture gives you a picture with every group drawn on it and its size, MOA, mean radius and center underneath, to keep in Photos or send to someone. Saved Live targets are in your backups too.
• Cartridges: the cartridge list Range Book uses for bullet diameters and its warnings, with each one's SAAMI maximum case length and overall length and what else is safe in that chamber. It's for reference only. Fix anything you find wrong (changed boxes are colored, with Revert) or add your own; see Cartridges under Gear & Ranges.
• Targets: the printable targets (see Shooting above).

On a Shooting profile with a bullet length and twist filled in, a warning also appears at the top when the bullet isn't fully stable in that twist under today's conditions, with a Check it in Tools button.

License

Range Book is free software, copyright © 2026 Sean O'Neill. You can use it, copy it, change it and share it under the GNU Affero General Public License, version 3 or later (AGPL). If you share a changed version, or run one as a website for other people, you have to make its source code available under the same license, so it stays free for everyone.

It comes with no warranty. The full license is in the LICENSE file and at gnu.org.

Limits

Point-mass model with the standard G1 drag curve, matching the spreadsheet version. It assumes a level shot and ignores spin drift and Coriolis. Past about 1,000 yd most bullets slow toward the speed of sound, where G1 is less reliable, so treat those numbers as estimates. Always confirm your drops on paper at known distances.